This latest round-up again includes as a free sample item - but the wider press coverage of Clubland is reserved for paying members. It remains the best way to keep informed about clubs making the news worldwide.
Journalist Tim Dowling recently wrote a column on British puddings - or more accurately, crucifying British puddings, arguing that some “deserve extinction.” The piece charted his attempts to make ten of them. Dowling is not a chef; and the results often reflected that.
Simon Conyers, head chef of Buck’s, was not amused. He wrote the following letter to the Guardian:
It was a great shame to see our great classic puds being done double disservice – once in Tim Dowling’s cooking and then in his writing (Steam, stodge – and so much suet: I made 10 endangered British puddings. Are any actually worth saving?, 23 September).
I am the head chef at a private members’ club in London, and I can assure you that these “endangered” British puddings absolutely thrive in such establishments. I suspect that is not only down to our clientele, but also because we cook them properly. I’m afraid the photos accompanying the article show that the author made rather a poor attempt at recreating these wonderful British classics, and so I’m not surprised that he gives them such bad reviews.
A jam roly-poly, with homemade jam (plum or damson at this time of year is excellent), well made and properly cooked, and served with custard and perhaps some stewed fruit, is an absolute delight.
Simon Conyers
Head chef, Buck’s Club
The rest of the press round-up below continues to be a feature for paying subscribers only.
This fortnight’s edition contains 13 more stories, spanning clubs across the UK, India, Singapore and Switzerland.
If you are enjoying the Clubland Substack, do consider supporting my work as a paying subscriber - it means I can justify setting aside more of my time to bring you more material. And because of extra features like the below, my paying subscribers are some of the most informed people in Clubland.
